A town called Jumla

Chandranath is officially the name for the district headquarters of Jumla, but I didn't hear it mentioned once in my week there. It is just referred to as Jumla.

Jumla is one of the five districts in the Karnali Zone, which is in the remote Northwest. It is not really feasible to get there over land so we had to travel by bus to Nepalganj (12 hours) to catch a flight the next morning. The flight from Nepalganj takes you over the dusty plains of the Terai giving way to the Mahabarat Hills and finally the mountains. The journey on a twenty-something seater is only 45 minutes, but it feels like you have gone back in time when you step out on to the tarmac of the runway. As we walked toward the chain link gate, heavily adorned with barbed and razor wire, we were greeted by an official holding a big book in which we had to write our passport and visa numbers although he didn't actually check them. Then through the gate into the street to wait for our bags with the assembled crowd, who were there either to greet the arriving passengers, or send off the departing as the plane had already re-boarded with outbound passengers by the time I turned around. A few minutes later and the plane turned around and was off up over the hills back to Nepalganj.

We were met by Soroj, who is the EWN field officer in Jumla and Raj Bhadur, who works for RCDS (Rural Community Development Service) partners with EWN on the mobile training as well as other projects. The bags arrived on a large cart wheeled out into the awaiting crowd and people just grab what is theirs. Simple.

From the airport it was a 10-15 minute walk to Jumla Bazaar. The first thing I noticed as we made our way down the hill was the lack of vehicles. By the time we had reached the guest house, I think I had seen only two motorbikes bouncing along the uneven mud and pebble roads. I had declined the offer of a porter, so was glad when we reached the Amar Sandesh Guest House and was able to unload myself. Since the Mugu training and therefore the trek had been cancelled, I decided to take all my stuff with me in case I chose not to return to Pokhara afterwards.

That afternoon, after settling in, I went for a wander to get the feel for the town I would call home for the next week. Archana and Francesca had been out for a walk earlier, but I had been overcome with drowsiness (from the altitude was my joking reasoning) and had napped for a bit - maybe it was all the excitement. At any rate, I set off alone to get the lay of the land. The town is built at the intersection of two valleys on a series of hills. The streets are mud and stone and the houses are surprisingly solid looking stone brick and wood buildings. It was not long before I was befriended by an old man who insisted that I accompany him to his home for tea. It is rare that I turn down the offer of a cuppa, so I accepted and followed him up the hill to his home. The family were set about to make tea and I was ushered into the living area. I think that the old man, one L.B. Malla, had an ulterior motive as it transpired that his second son was not yet married and I guess in the market for a wife. The old man kept reminding me that his son was unmarried as though I would suddenly propose! The tea was followed up a charred fried egg which was presented to me unrequested. I tried to make excuses that I had to go to dinner shortly, but eventually compromised and shared it with the old man while his sons, wife and a couple of random passing neighbours who had appeared, watched us eat. After a few more minutes exchanging pleasantries with his two sons, who spoke better English, I gave thanks and excused myself. L.B. Malla said he would come and see me the next day as it turned out he is related to the owners of my guest house. I should have known, and in fact, he did show up the day before we left, which was very sweet. My first taste of Jumla was a taste of things to come - open, curious and friendly people and hospitality. I thought to myself, as I headed back to the guest house for dinner of Dal Bhat, I'm going to like it here.